I typically use this mask to warm up on the bike at the gym before my workout. I often use it when doing kettlebell snatches and I frequently use it on short distance runs. If you wear this to the gym, you will get strange looks.
This mask definitely makes you work hard. In my personal experience, I typically run a couple of miles. With the mask, running a few miles can get difficult.
For a beginner, I’d recommend using the mask at the lowest setting 3,000 feet. I currently live at an elevation of 725 feet. The first time I used the mask, I did a 1.5 mile bike ride with the mask at the lowest setting, 3,000 feet. I felt a little strange when done. Not dizzy, but a very subtle lightheadedness. For people living at higher elevations, this probably isn’t a problem. Be careful when using this mask. Everyone is different. Your body will adjust based on the elevation it has acclimated to. Your body will let you know. When first using your mask it has a very distinct rubbery/plastic smell. Over time this smell will go away.
Mask Resistance Levels
The mask allows for two modes of operation. The first mode allows air flow out of both valves, the left and the right. In this mode the mask simulates 3,000 – 9,000 feet. The second mode allows air flow out of one valve, left or right, your choice. In this mode the mask simulates 12,000 – 18,000 feet. The highest setting I have used for runs over 1 mile is the 12,000 foot setting. See the diagram below to change the resistance levels of your Elevation Training Mask 2.0.
If you are over the age of 28 and you have exercised most of your adult life, chances are that you’ve sustained some sort of muscle injury along the way. Over time, these injuries are more noticeable and eventually become known as trigger points.
Trigger points, also known as knots, are hyperirritable spots in your skeletal muscles that are associated with tight muscle fibers. Pain often radiates from these points to broader areas distant from the trigger point itself.
I personally experience a lot of pain between my shoulder blade (left side) and my left shoulder. This is very common for men who lift weights. The tightening of muscles in the chest and shoulders creates a hunched over posture. In addition, sitting at a desk all day compounds the problem making trigger points in the shoulder area very common.
If you are experiencing pain similar to mine, you have two options.
Deep tissue massages are very affective. The massage can loosen the tightness in the trigger points alleviating some pain. Unless you are a pro athlete, you probably don’t have access to a massage therapist before and after every workout. If you have lots of money to waste, go for it. If not, get a RumbleRoller.
The RumbleRoller simulates the affect of a massage. The RumbleRoller is similar to foam rollers you may see in most gyms. But conventional foam rollers have smooth surfaces that further compress soft tissue. Rolling on top of them improves blood flow and tissue flexibility, but the effect is limited and relatively superficial, unless you spend a lot of time rolling. The RumbleRoller performs this therapy more effectively. The surface of the RumbleRoller contains specially designed bumps that are firm, but flexible, much like the thumbs of a massage therapist. As you roll over the top of the RumbleRoller, the bumps continuously knead the contours of your body, gently stretching soft tissue (muscle and fascia) in multiple directions. This action erodes trigger points, helps restore flexibility, and brings quick relief to common types of muscular pain. By design, the RumbleRoller’s bumps are firmer than muscle tissue, but much softer than bone, so they deflect out of the way if they contact your spine or other bony protrusions.
On September 19, 2009 I went to Munich Germany for Oktoberfest. This trip changed my life in many ways, too many to discuss here. If you would like to hear about my Oktoberfest goings ons, visit Oktoberfest, Munich Germany.
While in Munich, I took a bike tour around the city. On the tour, I stopped at several historical sites and a few beer gardens. When I got back home, I was interested in riding a bike around town. Winchester is a small city and there is no damn reason why I couldn’t ride a bike 2 miles in one direction. I exercise all the time; 4 miles round trip on a bike shouldn’t be a problem. I went to Wal-Mart and got a crappy $100 mountain bike. I rode it 2-3 times and didn’t ride a bike again for 2 years.
In July of 2012, I was browsing an online shopping website called Jackthreads which sells apparel, shoes and accessories. On the site they had a Sole Bicycle for sale. The bikes retailed for $379 plus $50, a total of $429. Jackthreads had the bikes for sale for $324 with free shipping. I purchased the P-Wayf fixed gear Sole Bicycle saving $105.
Below is the promotional video for my bike .
At that time, I wasn’t familiar with fixed gear bicycles. For those of you who do not know what a fixed gear is, this is a single speed bike. There is no changing of gears, no clicking and grinding as you pedal. This bike has a drive train with no freewheel mechanism. A freewheel allows the pedals to remain stationary while the bicycle is in motion, so that the rider can coast, ride without pedaling. A fixed-gear drive train has the cog threaded directly to the hub of the back wheel, so that the rider cannot stop pedaling. Fortunately, Sole Bicycles come with a flip-flop hub which is threaded to accept fixed cogs and/or flywheels. So it is up to you as a rider to choose if you want coast or if you want to roll fixed. I roll fixed. This type of bike is popular among urban cyclist because it offers the advantages of simplicity compared with the multi-geared bicycle. Most of the bikes I had seen people ride were mountain bikes, or street bikes. Since I wasn’t a hardcore bike rider, I didn’t want to spend $1,000 plus on a street bike. I also didn’t want a mountain bike. It is not necessary to have a mountain bike for the terrain I ride on in town. The Sole fixed gear bicycle made more sense for me. It was cost affective for my purposes. Call me a hipster if you want, the bike looks cool and it meets my needs. The specifications on my bike are as follows:
Hi-tensile steel fully tig welded frame with fork end dropouts and BMX handle bars with Oury grips.
Hi tensile steel thread less lugged crown fork.
Sealed cartridge bottom bracket.
Crank set: Lasco 170 MM, Alloy 48T, with 5 Bolt chairing
Brake: Radius Dual Caliper
Hub: Flip Flop Fixed/Single Speed 16T
Chain: KMC Z410 98 Links
Rim: Machine/Double Walled “Deep Dish” 35MM, Quick Release front tire
Tires: Innova 700 X 23C
Saddle: Black Vader soft top
Seat post: 25.4 X 300MM
Total Weight: 26 Pounds
Seatpost: 25.4 X 300MM
I have a Medium 55 cm bike, for heights 5’7″ – 5’11”
The bike comes 95% assembled. Once assembled, I would recommend taking it to a local bike shop. They can make the necessary adjustments for your front break and other adjustments. After assembling my bike, I took it out for the first ride and realized that when applying reverse pressure to break, my pedals would slip. My lock ring wasn’t tight enough and I didn’t have the proper tools to tighten it up. You will need a Lock Ring Wrench to tighten your lock ring if you have this problem. Or just take it to the shop. The bike comes with instructions to install front tire, handle bars and easy-to-screw-on pedals.
I now ride my bike as often as possible, weather permitting. I mostly ride to and from the gym and downtown and back home. I’m still getting used to the fixed gear. I try to stop as much as I can without using the front break. Eventually I’d like to remove the front break completely. I have to learn how to slide to stop better before doing that.